Don't Let This Happen To You:
How to avoid problems in the first place
[By clicking on any of the photos on this page, you will find a larger version of that photo.]
Tree tie damage:
 It is common for some nursery grown trees to need some temporary support while becoming established. If supporting tie material is not removed, plant tissue can grow around them causing substantial damage and even death. Check your trees now and either remove or loosen tree ties.
Weed trimmer blight:
 A string trimmer can kill a tree in seconds. This problem is best avoided by having a "plant free" zone around the tree trunk. Eliminating the requirement of trimming weeds can completely eliminate this hazardous condition.
Ring-root:
 This example of ring-root could have been avoided if circling roots were "unwrapped" at the time of planting. This root will grow in diameter along with the trunk and the tree will strangle itself. Don't purchase a plant if circling roots cannot be straightened. In some circumstances small roots can be cut off to prevent the choking growth. Consult an arborist for the best advice if you consider removing large roots.
Nutsedge: The Weed You Never Want To See
 Imagine a plant that can grow through the bottom of a vinyl lined pool or through an asphalt roadbed. Imagine a plant that produces not only seeds but an underground storage capsule called a nutlet that can remain viable for years. Purple or Yellow Nutsedge fits these descriptions. This plant is often referred to as nutgrass.
Finding this weed in your yard can be the beginning of a nightmare, but only if you do nothing about it. Do nothing, and this weed can spread as far as you can see. Favoring moist areas, Nutsedge has become a national menace. You can get the upper hand if you commit your self to the task. There are some strategies that can be taken to keep this weed from getting out of control.
To conquer this weed you have two choices, three if you count moving. There is spraying and there is digging. Neither are without shortcomings and both require diligence.
If this weed shows up in the lawn, spraying works best. Products containing MSMA have worked well but usually need several applications. A new product called "Manage" has shown excellent results. This product can also be used in shrub areas providing that the spray is kept off the desired plants.
Very selective applications of a non-selective herbicide such as Glyphosate can work, but once again repeat applications are usually needed.
Physical removal can be attempted if the area of infestation is not too large, the reason being that this nasty little weed produces both seeds and nutlets. These nutlets are formed underground and are difficult to pull while seeds are produced in huge quantities. Think of the nutlet as a battery that can lose its charge; if the weed doesn't grow too large after sprouting from the nutlet then the nutlet becomes depleted and can no longer sprout another plant. If the weed gets to 3-4 inches, the nut is "recharged" to sprout again some future day. When a seed germinates, it takes a couple of weeks for the new plant to produce nutlets. Keep after nutsedge and you have a good chance of ridding this weed from your yard. Just be aware of the fact that this is no overnight project.
Don't Let This Happen To You: Blossom End Rot
 This condition is very common on tomatoes and peppers. It is not the result of a disease or pest but is caused by a calcium deficiency. The condition is also common when the water content in the soil varies wildly. Blossom end rot can occur in soils that have plenty of calcium, but some times the plant itself is not all that efficient at getting it out of the soil or transporting it fast enough to meet the requirements of rapidly developing fruits. Some varieties are more prone to the condition than others. The paste type tomatoes are particularly susceptible.
To combat this condition, try using a foliar calcium spray such a
Monterey Chemical Foli-Cal. This product has soluble calcium that can be absorbed directly into the leaves or fruit. If the soil has limited calcium availability, use gypsum at the time of planting. Lime can be blended into the soil but only if the soil has been tested indicating acidity. If the problem has been noted for several years, try planting different varieties that are less prone.
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